Montag, 27. April 2015

Week 14: An Adventure in Paris

This week ended up being very condensed due to going to Paris over the weekend, so I had to cram a significant amount of schoolwork and other activities into about 3.5 days. The extra effort was totally worth it for the wonderful opportunity I had to spend time in Paris with Catherine, along with a friend of hers and a friend of mine.  Truly another weekend that I will not soon forget!

13 April

As I remember back on this morning, I think I had the feeling that I did not want to go to my teaching internship that day.  I continued building on my lesson using adjectives and landscapes which I made for the Thursday before.  Class was as usual in the afternoon with Managing Behaviour in Organizations and our teaching internship class.  Researched for Paris and continued to edit papers in the evening.

14-15 April

During Tuesday and Wednesday, I crammed in schoolwork alongside researching places to visit in Paris and hanging out with a few friends. My schoolwork mainly involved finishing up my essays due for Cultural History of Austria and writing a theater scene for my Viennese Theater course's performance of our own original theater piece in a talent show at the end of the semester.  I also quickly put together a lesson on popular sports in the USA for my English teaching internship. On Tuesday night, my English friend Katie invited me over to her house for supper to catch up.  I rounded out our Italian dinner by bringing some tiramisu from Aida, a successful Austrian bakery with several locations throughout Vienna.  I appreciate Katie's friendship so much as we both face challenges together in Austria and grow with God in our time abroad.

In Cultural History of Austria today, we made an excursion to the Kunsthistorisches Museum.  I met with a helpful contact in the afternoon, who gave me better guidance than anyone else so far as I think about applying for a Fulbright Grant, in order to return to Austria.  In the evening, I headed over to Bible study at Katie's house with several girls from our church.  I love being able to express myself more fully in situations like this and understand better, now having practiced German in Austria for about 3 months.

16 April

I woke up early on Thursday, in order to cram in all my responsibilities before I headed out for Bratislava, from where I would fly to Paris.  Finishing up schoolwork in the morning, going to class, and cleaning our apartment made the morning fly by.  I was sitting on the bus to Bratislava before I knew it, rather excited for my adventures in Paris during the weekend ahead.  My trip to Bratislava went smoothly, although the RyanAir flight to Paris was a slightly new experience.  They often try to sell you lots of items on the plane and the seats are a little hard, but it's definitely worth it for less than 30 Euro!  When I arrived in Paris, I easily followed my sister's very exact directions to the airbnb where we would stay.  I arrived safely and was greeted warmly by Catherine and our welcoming host, Felix.  Catherine and I immediately fell in love with our flat, which was 4 floors up in an old French apartment building and lined with old wooden beams and plaster on the walls and ceiling.  We grabbed a bit of food at a supermarket next door and then sat down to a quick snack, before heading to bed to catch a few winks before our big day on Friday.

17 April

Catherine and I spent a lazy morning in the apartment planning out our sight-seeing for the day and then headed off on a wonderfully long walk to take in the city of Paris.  We first headed down to the Place de la Bastille, which became plastered with posters and graffiti (in typical French fashion) after the political unrest earlier this year.  We wandered on down along the Seine, past more monuments and Pont Neuf, a main bridge crossing the Seine.  After crossing the river, we passed through Notre Dame cathedral and ate a delicious galette in a little shop along a side street nearby.  Notre Dame was truly beautiful and breathtaking, especially the painted and decorated chapels lining the inside walls.  Our galette with melty goat cheese and fresh tomatoes rounded out our wonderful visit!  We continued on past a bridge with thousands of "love locks," then through the Tuilereis Gardens and Champs Elysees, which contained the entrance to the Louvre and the Arc de Triomphe.
Place de la Bastille, covered in grafitti and posters
Beautiful Notre Dame
Sun glimmering at Notre Dame
Typical tourist pic at the Louvre entrance, 'nuff said
Hanging out at the Arc de Triomphe
For the evening we headed over to the apartment of Catherine's friend from Kenya, Matthieu.  I loved getting to see a more personal side of Paris as we heard about the life of Matthieu and his cousin, then later went out to a bar to meet several of their friends.  Things got a little slow at the bar, since most of the friends knew each other from business school and had reunited to visit Matthieu's brother as he passed through Paris.  We chose not to stay out super late and went back home to eat a little and then head to bed, where I crankily tried to make a few decisions about the next day's plan with Catherine.

18 April

We headed out fairly early in the morning after eating breakfast and showering, since we wanted to go visit Musee de la Orangerie.  The museum ended up being a beautiful place right beside the Tuileries Gardens, where we could see several artists from the impressionist period up through modern times.  Catherine and I both loved the "Water Lily Rooms" in the top floor of the museum, which are two oval-shaped rooms containing Monet's panorama pictures of water lilies at different times of the day.  The artists in the lower museum floor ranged from impressionistic to pre-modern, showing the development of French art throughout this period and the cultural influences upon it.  I particularly appreciated the manageable size of the museum - easily viewable in 1.5-2 hours, rather than feeling like you could only scratch the surface of a massive collection in the Louvre.
Favorite painting at the museum
Louis Vuitton's "floating cloud"
Catherine and I met up with Matthieu again in the afternoon to go see a new exhibit in Paris, a huge cloud-like building and museum recently built by the fashion company, Louis Vuitton.  The building and the art inside formed a Gesamtkunstwerk, or an artistic synthesis.  The structure itself blended in with the surrounding park atmosphere with its gently bending arches and the waterfall splashing down the steps in front of the building. The building supposedly represents a floating cloud, which contained several modern artwork exhibits inside.  A particularly special piece was "The Scream" by Mönch.  I find modern art often hard to understand, but the museum provided a thorough explanation of each piece to help explain its importance in history.  I ended up becoming rather cranky towards the end of the museum, since we skipped lunch earlier.  I began to regret that I had not seen more of the classical sites in Paris, especially since I could enter for free and avoid their exorbitant prices due to my status as a student.  Catherine and I chatted a bit about it throughout the day and looking back, I now more thoroughly appreciate seeing Paris off-the-beaten track and getting to know real Parisians.  Catherine mentioned that wanting to experience cities in this way often comes with more traveling experience, after you have seen many of the old buildings and museums which exist in Europe. It simply becomes more fascinating to know a city intimately through its people and local places.

We experienced a bit more of "local Paris" in the evening when we hung out with my friend, Tom, who currently works for a nonprofit located slightly outside of Paris.  He helped Catherine and I find a Senegalese restaurant so that Catherine could reminisce about her Peace Corps times, by eating the type of food she "gets once every 5 years." Tom gave us a tour of the African quarter in Paris, showing us places where West African fabric and food were sold and chatting it up with the store owners in about three different languages.  I felt as though I were in Senegal again.  Funny how 10 years ago, Catherine and I saw each other in Senegal.  Exactly 10 years later, we ate Senegalese food in a restaurant in Paris.  I would not have exactly expected that as an 11-year old; funny how things change...
 
Hanging out at Sacre Coeur
We ended the evening by heading up to Montmartre and the gorgeous church of Sacre Coeur.  After wandering around the quaint streets of Montmartre, Cat, Tom, and I bought a bottle of wine and found a staircase on which to sit and watch the sunset of Paris.  I insisted that I had to eat a chocolate crepe while in Paris, so Cat and Tom found me a cheap shop and I bought myself a delicious, genuine French crepe.  It was worth every penny!  Cat then proceeded to make fun of me for taking the following silly picture with my crepe...
Chowing down on a Parisian Nutella crepe
Apparently she doesn't understand the necessity of taking all food pics with a wide open mouth...
After saying good-bye to Tom, Cat and I headed back towards the Seine in order to go visit the Eiffel Tower.  Our route took longer than we expected and we both ended up needing to go to the bathroom really badly, but the Parisians apparently close their public toilets at 10 pm.  We eventually found one and then could enjoy a beautiful walk around the lighted Eiffel tower, gazing up into the giant feat of construction soaring above our heads.  What a magical end to a beautiful day!
The Eiffel tower
19 April

Catherine said good-bye to me in the morning and headed out to catch her flight back home to Scotland.  I fully woke up an hour or so later and packed my things to head out to attend church with Tom.  After a slight mishap with the train in the morning, I eventually reached a suburb near where Tom lives.  We drove over to the church together and I attended my second French service while here in Europe.  I find it fun to hear the different words I can pick out of the songs and occasionally conversations, based on my knowledge of German and Spanish.  Tom introduced me to some of the people he knows at the church and then we headed over to his host family's house for a birthday lunch and party for their daughter.  After going on a short hike in the surrounding woods, Tom drove me over to the airport.  I safely arrived on my flight and headed home to Vienna after a wonderful weekend with family and friends.

Week 13: A Whirlwind Week

This week ended up being quite a whirlwind due to coming home from my long Easter break trip and then having a weekend full of visitors and a day trip!

6-7 April

Joyce took me on a tour of Lausanne before I headed out for Vienna around lunchtime. Joyce has lived in Lausanne for 32 years, so she knows the city very well!  She showed me places like where her daughter went to school and an area where the river Lausanne has been totally encased underground.  One bridge was a major construction feat, since it was an arch bridge, theough which they later constructed a metro crossing in the bottom part!  I wrapped up my visit with Joyce shortly before noon and then headed to the train station.  I unfortunately faced issues with my travel home and stayed in Bern at a hostel overnight.  The extra time gave me a chance to work on getting caught up on my blog and other school work, so I would start off in a good position after returning home from break. I arrived home on Tuesday night, thoroughly tired out from my trip but looking forward to classes again.
Overlooking Lausanne
On the steps of the university in Lausanne
8 April

My Kulturgeschichte Österreichs class met this morning and enjoyed an excursion to Schloss Belvedere (a palace in Vienna, built by Prince Eugene of Savoy).  We visited the upper Belvedere, which is an absolutely breathtaking art museum.  Our teacher explained several paintings to us from the Biedermeier period, several decades in the mid-1800s, when censorship was extremely strong in Austria. This led to people promoting culture privately within their homes, by holding concerts, exhibits, and gatherings in their parlors. Many of the paintings from this period reflect this private, "home-grown" culture.

In the early afternoon, I was sitting at IES doing homework, not really sure whether a group of girls planned to meet in the evening for Bible study or not.  Turns out the meeting could not happen, so I had the chance to go to the Wagner opera which I knew happened that day.  All of a sudden, I realized the opera started at 5 pm rather than 7 pm, the normal time.  I rushed out of IES and headed over to the Wiener Staatsoper (Vienna National Opera) and got in line for my tickets at around 2:30 pm, because you always need to arrive super early.  I got my tickets, whilst helping a couple other people in line become oriented to the opera.  One of these couples only spoke Spanish and I realized how horrific my Spanish has really become.  I felt like I couldn't pull up all the words I used to know, since the German ones kept interfering!  I eventually managed to help them understand and then settled in for the 5-hour long opera, Parsifal.  The German subtitles were tough to understand with their old-fashioned language, but I managed.  Wagner's opera was truly nothing short of incredible with its intense passion and conflict.  But the best part came at the end of the play.  I was talking to my friend, Arya, in the standing section of the opera, when an old woman came over to us.  I asked if she need something and she wanted to give up her FRONT ROW SEAT for the last act.  So yes, I got to see a Wagner opera from the front row of the Wiener Staatsoper.  The close-up view of the characters and the intense sound of the orchestra were absolutely breathtaking.  I will never forget as the singers' voices reverberated around the opera hall on the last line "Erlösung dem Erlöser."  What a beautiful, unforgettable night!

9 April

Thursday ended up being a catch-up day, since my friend Maggie planned to visit from Freiburg on Friday.  Went to class and worked on school as usual, then headed over to the Burgtheater (main theater in Vienna) for a performance of Dantons Tod, which focuses on the life of main characters in the French Revolution.  We had to attend the performance for my Viennese Theater class, but I could hardly concentrate due to my rising stress about finding housing in Chicago for the summer and employment for next school year.  I honestly spent most of the time writing e-mails on my phone in the back row, rather than attempting to listen to actors running about the stage and jabbering about French philosophy in German.  The fact that I consumed a rather large coffee before attending the play likely contributed to my distractions...

10 April

After German class in the morning, I met up with Aaron Martin and Maggie Kline near the Wiener Staatsoper (Vienna National Opera).  All of us lived together in the Global Village Living-Learning Center at IU during our first two years at university.  Aaron and I are studying abroad together in Vienna, while Maggie currently lives in Freiburg, Germany, for her study abroad semester.  We met up to show Maggie a few of the main sites around Vienna, so that she could get a taste of our beautiful city!  Aaron and I took her to Karlskirche (St. Charles' Church), where we rode up the elevator to the top of the church and enjoyed the gorgeous view of the city.  We then showed her around the Schatzkammer (Royal Treasury), which contains gems and belongings from the Hapsburg dynasty.  Aaron and I had already visited most of the Schatzkammer for our Cultural History of Austria class, but we took time to see an extra portion during this visit which our class skipped during our tour.  I loved going a second time to both these locations - they truly display the glory of Vienna and never fail to fascinate me with their incredible handiwork!  We then grabbed snacks at a local grocery store and sat down to rest our weary legs for an hour or so in Stadtpark (City Park), which lies alongside a river in downtown Vienna.  For supper, we enjoyed traditional Viennese food at the Zwolfapostelkeller (12 Apostles' Cellar), a centuries old wine cellar in Vienna.  I tried Käsespätzle for the first time and completely loved it!

Delicious Käsespätzle!
11 April

I headed out to the Wachau Valley today for a day-long field trip with my study abroad program.  We left Vienna on a bus shortly after 9 am and first visited the Monastery of Melk, which contains over 5,000 rooms and perhaps the most decked out Baroque church which I ever saw.  We did not visit all 5,000 rooms, of course, especially since a sizable section of the monastery is still in use as a Catholic school today.  After the monastery, we headed over to a traditional Austrian restaurant, where I enjoyed a Knoblauchcremesuppe (garlic cream soup), salad, and a delicious Topfenstrudl with plumsauce!  In the afternoon we hiked up to the ruins of the castle Durnstein, where Richard the Lionheart was supposedly imprisoned in the 12th century during his return home from the Crusades.  The view of the entire Wachau valley from Durnstein was absolutely gorgeous - a sweeping and breathtaking Austrian landscape.  We finished off the day with a tour of a family-run winery in the Wachau, where we learned all about the process of making wine.  We traipsed down into the old wine cellar and found layers of wet, sticky mold on the brick walls, into which people sometimes press coins for good luck.  The rich, clear flavors of the wine were among the best I ever tasted!

View of the Wachau from Melk Monastery
View of the Wachau from Castle Durnstein
Ruins of Castle Durnstein, prison of Richard the Lionheart
12 April

I enjoyed a refreshing morning at church, where Reinhold, one of the pastors, preached a message on encouragement from 2 Corinthians.  I went to lunch afterwards with several people from church and then headed off to catch up on school for the rest of the day.  I spent most of my time working on essays due on Wednesday for Cultural History of Austria, along with visiting Die Sammlung alter Musikinstrumente (Collection of Old Music Instruments) in the Hofburg (Royal Palace).  My visit helped me realize how ridiculously large the Hofburg actually is with is winding halls and rooms.  I enjoyed seeing the predecessor instruments of the piano, along with browsing through a myriad of strange instruments from the Middle Ages.

Montag, 6. April 2015

Week 12: Further and Deeper

In case you have not read all the posts up until now, I should let you know that I am currently still on Easter vacation.  I only had one midterm to write during my midterms week, then Easter vacation came the week after.  Altogether this gave me about 2 weeks of time to travel. I started on the evening of 23 March and since visited Venice, Munich/Kaufbeuern, Salzburg, and Goslar (Harz Mountains).  As I begin this post, I am on my way to Lausanne from Saturday-Monday, but plan to make a quick stop in Freiburg to spend the night with a friend studying abroad there.  I will return to Vienna on late Monday night, 6 April.  This week included travel to Salzburg, the Harz mountains in central Germany, and finally Lausanne/Geneva, Switzerland.  Throughout this trip I am gradually broadening my view of Central Europe and the German-speaking world. This second week of travel included going to places further out (Salzburg, Harz mountains, Freiburg) from larger European cities (1,000,000+ population), which thus deepened and expanded my understanding of the European world from a different perspective.

30 March

I said good-bye to my cousin Anna, as she departed off to work and I headed off to take a trip to Salzburg.  The weather in Salzburg was initially rainy when I arrived and the train station lies in a more industrial part of the city, giving me a less than favorable first impression.  I headed to my hostel to catch up on some work and check-in, before heading out to begin seeing Salzburg.  

Salzburg Fortress
When I finally gathered enough gumption to brave the nasty, rainy weather, I began by heading up to Nonnnberg Abbey.  Several scenes from the beginning of Sound of Music were filmed here and the abbey itself has existed since the early Middle Ages.  About 21 nuns continue to live there and follow the Bendictine order of prayer and work.  The simple, gothic-style church left a lasting impression on me with its smaller feel and focus in comparison with larger churches.  The huge Hohensalzburger Festung (Salzburg fortress) rather overwhelmed me with its massive size, which arose through several expansions from the 1000s through th 1600s.  I walked around the fortress complex, one of the largest in Europe, and took a short tour of the princely rooms inside, where the bishops of Salzburg lived.  These bishops controlled both the political and spiritual power in Salzburg and used their power to eliminate almost all other religious influences than Catholicism from the Salzburg state.  Salzburg remained its own independent state until the early 1800s, when Austria annexed it.  These bishops turned Salzburg into a baroque residential capital of the city-state over a period of about 200 years during the late Middle Ages and Renaissance.  I visited one of the main works from this time after finishing at the fortress.  The place I visited was the Salzburger Dom (St. Michael's Dome, the main church in Salzburg).  I could see the heavy Italian style in the incredibly intricate ceilings and dome structure, quite similar to the Italian architecture in Venice.  I wandered around the square outside the church a little more, grabbing a pretzel to start my supper, since Germany greatly increased my affection for soft pretzels.  I then headed home for a good night's sleep at my hostel before beginning more adventures the next day.
31 March

I always determine that I am going to be out the door of my hostel, showered, and have eaten breakfast by or before 8 am.  That rarely happens, if ever.  I think I went out the door by about 9:30 am and then headed to the Salzburg museum, where I enjoyed spending a couple hours wandering through an exhibit called Mythos Salzburg.  The exhibit talked about the beautiful landscape of the Salzburg basin, a place where fantasy and reality meet as many artists depict in their paintings.  It then went on to explain how Salzburg evolved from its own country-state to a part of Austria and the tourist destination which it is today.  I really enjoyed the museum and thought it was beautiful laid out, a display of simple exhibits with eye-catching variations in the design.  The museum has a modern architecture, but is located in apartments of the old city palace, so that several rooms have carved ceilings from the old palace.  I enjoyed a relaxed lunch at the 313-year old Café Tomaselli afterwards, where I ate a delicious ham and cheese omelette, found out that the bread placed in a basket on your table is NOT included in the price of your omelette, and discovered that a small slice of common Austrian Cremeschnitte cake contains enough heavy cream filling to knock you out for the rest of the day!
Carved ceiling in the Salzburg Museum
I managed to overcome the soporific influences of the Cremeschnitte torte and  moved on take a peek into the Salzburg panorama museum.  This museum contains a 360 degree painting with a view of the Salzburg basin, along with several other incredible landscape paintings by the same artists.  I moved on from the museums to go visit Mozart's birthplace, where I found out that the Mozart's were a super cool family.  Except for the fact that their daughter Nannerl was a Wunderkind like her brother, but she could not travel and develop her career later in her life due to restraints placed on her by her gender.  I then moved back northwards in the city of Salzburg to visit Mirabell gardens, where further scenes from Sound of Music were filmed.  I wanted to round out my afternoon and get more money out of my 48-hour Salzburg card by going up into the mountains with a cable car.  Thus, I took a half hour bus ride out to the cable car, only to discover that it was closed due to bad weather.  Despite this disappointment, I returned to Salzburg and took a lift up to the top of the Mönchsberg (Monk's Mountain), where I got a final, rainy view of Salzburg and hiked around the old city wall for a bit.  I rode back down the mountain and then headed back to my hostel to head out with the night train.
Room where Mozart was born
Mirabell Gardens
View of the Salzburg basin
Now, everything had been running very smoothly in regards to travel for my trip so far.  But unfortunately, things just had to go awry in Salzburg.  I stepped onto my train, only to find out that the railroad track from Salzburg to Munich was closed due to a major storm.  I ended up taking an alternative bus to Munich, provided by Deutsche Bahn, but I unfortunately missed my connection north to the Harz mountains.  Deutsche Bahn paid for me to stay in a hotel for the night, which I finally found after asking around at about 5 hotels for available rooms.

1 April

I woke up early in the morning and took the earliest possible connection north to Braunschweig, from where I quickly caught a regional train over to Goslar.  I arrived in town only to find out from the travel office that my hostel was located about 20 km out of Goslar, in an even smaller village called Hahnenklee.  See, "Goslar-Hahnenklee" in the hostel's address didn't just me a town connected to Goslar.  It meant a small village much farther away in the region of Goslar.  I took a bus out to my hostel and was fortunately helped by a man in the bus and some staff at the local Ramada to find my hostel, which conveniently stood next door.

The weather had increasingly worsened during the day and Hahnenklee actually had several inches of snow by the time I arrived.  Almost no activities remained open for me to do by the time I became settled in my hostel.  I thus wandered around the beautiful, snow-covered town for a few minutes and stopped in at a pizza restaurant to grab a bite to eat.  I felt really weird being a lone American girl in this very obscure place in the mountains.  I ended up talking with my waiter after I finished and heard about his fascinating story ending up at a university in a nearby town, after growing up in Morrocco. An American and a Morroccan ending up meeting in a tiny mountain village in central Germany...what a coincidence.

2 April

I would guess that you are probably wondering at this point why I decided to go visit a small mountain range in central Germany.  Well, this trip was really the culmInating point of my German nerdity.  I took a class in spring 2015 on Heinrich Heine, a well known 19-century German poet.  My final presentation for this class included doing a presentation on Heine's book, Die Harzreise, which chronicles his journey through the Harz mountains.  He took this journey during a break from law school, as he considered what he wanted to do next during his life.  He travels through several towns in the Harz during this journey, describing the people and customs in each place.  His book creates a travelogue of the region during the time and simultaneously creates a powerful impression of the forces of imagination and reality at odds in the deeply superstitious Harz region and in his own life.  The beauty described in the book and the way Heine's personal struggles resonated with my own made me want to make a pilgrimage of sorts to the region, in order to visit the sites where Heine also visited.

I originally intended to spend significant time hiking in the Harz, but the weather greatly changed my intentions.  After a relaxed breakfast at my hostel (which had the most lovely, über-fluffy blankets and pillows), I wandered out into the town of Hahnenklee to explore further and go on a short hike through the woods.  I suddenly realized how greatly I had missed the snow in Vienna and reveled in every moment exploring the graceful, magical, snow-covered Alpine wilderness.  I circled back around to tinge town at the end of my walk and visited Hahnenklee's Stabkirche, an entirely wooden church built in the early 1900's in the style of old Norwegian churches.  A man there explained the organ and the carillon to us, a bell-type instrument of which only 40 exist in Germany.  We even got to peek into the bell tower of the church!

Entrance to my adorable hotel
Gorgeous walk in the woods by Hahnenklee
Loving the winter wonderland!
Beautiful, wooden Stabkirche
I hurried over to the bus stop after visiting the Stabkirche, so I could catch a bus back into Goslar.  I unfortunately had to spend the first couple hours of the afternoon figuring out my arrangements for the next day.  I recently learned that Friday was Karfreitag, which meant that the buses into Goslar from Hahnenklee would not arrive in time for me to catch my early train.  I thus figured I would need to stay the night in Goslar.  Thankfully, McDonalds had Wifi, so I grabbed a cup of ice cream and looked up hostels in Goslar.  The only hostel in town was offering rooms for 39 Euro a night, so I went down the street to check them out.  Fortunately, the owner said I could book a room for only 19 Euros if I stayed in one of the bunk rooms and used only one of the beds.  Yay!

Gorgeous, snowy Harz mountains
With arrangements set for the next day, I sat down with my map and marked down my walking tour of Goslar.  I had formerly found this awesome website online which marks all the place Heine describes from his visit to Goslar.  I marked the places on my modern-day map of Goslar and headed off.  I visited the Marktplatz, the Rathaus, an old fortress tower, a gate, and so much more.  The town never failed to astound me as I walked through street after street after street of old medieval architecture and as my perspective shifted back and forth with the rapid changes of the weather.  But I'll let my pictures speak for themselves...

Colorful church
Street which Heine visited
Marktplatz
Rathaus
Medieval treasure trove

Canal running through Goslar
The Zwinger, a massive fortress
The sun emerges!
Towards the middle of my journey, I even found a plaque dedicated to Heine's 1824 visit to Goslar.
Plaque dedicated to Heine
I returned to the train station at the end of my walk and took a bus back to Hahnenklee to pick up my luggage.  I had a mini heart attack when I found that the reception was closed and I could not find my key, especially since I wanted to get back to Goslar before dark.  Fortunately, the owner's daughter came by and I gave my key to her.  My cell phone had also run out of credit, so I could not contact the hotel phone number, making the daughter's presence a particularly fortunate occurrence.  After handing over my key to her, I headed back into Goslar and paid for my room at the hostel.  I felt uneasy being in a room in a great big house with only a few other people, but I eventually went to sleep after ensuring the door was securely locked.  Nothing happened during the night and I remained safe.

Although my plans turned out differently than I expected, I am incredibly thankful that I got to walk in the steps of Heine and make my own journey to the Harz.  In his book, Heine sort of stumbles onto Goslar, just like I "stumbled onto" Hahnenklee through foolishly booking a hostel 20 km out of town. The whole adventure was a little hairy, but I loved experiencing a piece of the magic of the Harz.  I am incredibly thankful to Jesus for His protection and for working out the timing of people in the whole journey who helped direct me.  Honestly, I wouldn't change a thing about this journey (except for the delay in Munich) and I hope that one day I can come back to the Harz, to stay in a lovely little village called Hahnenklee and to walk further in Heine's footsteps in the surrounding mountains and towns.

3 April

After my adventure in the Harz, I had planned to go down to Lausanne, Switzerland.  I spent the night with my friend, Maggie, in Freiburg, which she currently studies abroad for a semester.  Maggie was a lovely host, as she took me on a walking tour around the lovely city of Freiburg.  The city constantly shows signs of nature, such as little gutters on the sides of the streets which channel the river through the city.  One street even has massive strung between the buildings when then bloom and make the street filled with nature during the summertime.  We saw some beautiful views of the whole city by walking up a nearby mountain on top of which was built an overlook tower.  I appreciated getting to talk with Maggie about our experiences so far, which both included improving our German and experiencing the wonder of Europe!

Beautiful view of Freiburg
Maggie and I
4 April

I left Freiburg early in the morning on Saturday and headed down to Lausanne by train, arriving slightly after 10 am in the morning.  I had previously made plans to stay with the mom of a woman from my church.  My friend, Joyce, has worked as a missionary in Switzerland for 32 years, so she knows the area quite well.  Joyce met me at the train station and we bought tickets to visit the Cailler chocolate factory and the small mountain town of Gruyere.  After a quick lunch at her apartment, we headed out on the train to Broq, the village where the chocolate factory is located.  We realized upon arriving to the factory, that the Saturday before Easter is one of the busiest days of the year for the factory.  We thus waited nearly two hours before our tour of the factory started.  I really enjoyed the tours, which walked you through an exhibit using props, lights, and an audioguide to tell an abridged history of chocolate.  We then could hear bits of stories of people who work in the manufacturing of chocolate, from harvesting cacao beans to business people in Cailler's headquarters.  The tour finally showed us an actual machine manufacturing the chocolate and then taught us the right way to test-taste chocolate!

Manufacturing chocolate at the factory
Blocks of cocoa butter
Joyce and I tried catching a train up to Gruyere, but missed it by a couple minutes.  We waited around until the next train and then made our way up through the mountains to Gruyere.  Upon arriving at the train station, Joyce mentioned that we needed to climb a small mountain path up to the actual village.  She asked a man at the station about which path to use and so we made our way into the adorable town of Gruyere, using a stone path winding up the hill.  Joyce showed me Gruyere's gate and different shops and restaurants which she previously visited.  We poked our heads in a small restaurant and Joyce decided to introduce me to Swiss cheese fondue.  She explained the whole entire Swiss cheese culture to me amongst other topics, while we enjoyed yummy Swiss bread dipped into melted cheese.  A truly lovely dinner!  We had to brave the rainy weather outside afterwards and made our way out of Gruyere, using another way down the hill.  We became slightly confused as the way wound directly beside the house of a farmer and through a cow pasture, but eventually found our way (using the light of Joyce's iPhone!).  Tired and worn out from an incredible day, I crawled into bed and slept very soundly until the next morning.
Main street in Gruyere
5 April

Joyce and I went to her church for Easter Sunday, which her church celebrated by hosting several other local congregations at her church.  I appreciated her pastor's message on the hope which Jesus offers us and how Jesus knocks on the doors of our hearts, calling us to respond to Him and follow Him.  A beautiful reminder on Resurrection Sunday morning.

We enjoyed lunch with Joyce's friend, Loredana, who befriended Joyce's daughter, Lana, several years ago.  Joyce made a delicious lunch with meat wrapped in bacon that had a whipped cream topping with it!  We ate in three courses with appetizer, main dish, and dessert...I felt very European :-).  After cleaning up from lunch, Joyce and I headed over to Montreux, a small town farther along the coast of Lake Geneva.  Montreux exists in a microclimate, which means that it becomes warmer than other towns in Switzerland.  For instance, palm trees can actually grow there, even though you can see snow on the mountains surrounding Montreux.  This creates a beautiful setting containing a sharp juxtaposition between two different climates.  Joyce and I wandered along the absolutely gorgeous lakeside and then visited Chateau de Chillon, a beautifully preserved castle from the Middle Ages.  We made our way back to Joyce's apartment after the beautiful day in Montreux and enjoyed a late dinner.

Montreux's subclimate - palm trees and snowy mountains!
Sublime Montreux
Chateau de Chillon

Mittwoch, 1. April 2015

Week 11: Set Loose To Fly

I aptly named this post "Set Loose To Fly" for many reasons.  First of all, this week is technically midterms week at IES.  However, I only had one midterm on Monday, since I wrote my other two last week already.  Secondly, I only had one midterm and could thus travel for nearly two whole weeks in Europe.  Don't get me wrong, I still needed to take care of responsibilities while traveling, but I was rather free for the most part!  Set loose to explore the beauty and grandeur in the cities around me!

23 Monday

Today I did an Easter presentation at school and found that one part of the activity went well, but again realized that I went too far above my students' heads.  In the younger class, Eva Maria had me go through the presentation more simply, then faster at a native speed. We also worked on an activity using the vocabulary for the presentation in an Easter egg drawing.  Eva Maria told me that going through slowly like this is called step-by-step teaching, working each concept on top of the other.

After finishing up studying and teaching, I headed over to IES to write my Managing Behavior in Organizations midterm in a very hot and stuffy room.  The midterm went well and I knew most of the content on which we had to write, and well, you can always stretch your knowledge a little to fill in the gaps on psychology and sociology based subjects.  My hand hurt after writing nearly 5 pages of short essay answers and I rejoiced with my exit into the free air and freedom from school responsibilities for nearly two weeks!  I prepared for my trip by wrapping up a few things around my apartment and then going running.  I quickly took a shower and headed to the train station, where I arrived about 6 minutes before my train left due to forgetting my backpack on the way out the door! Fortunately, I made it onto my train safely and soundly and headed overnight to Venice.

24 March

Riding over the Venice lagoon by train
My ride overnight went quite nicely, especially since I had two empty seats next to me and could stretch out to sleep during the night.  I found this experience far better than riding overnight with 6 people in a 6 person cabin, like my last overnight train ride.  I accidentally stepped out at the wrong train station and tried to find my way around unsuccessfully, but decided to eat a little breakfast before taking the train all the way into the center island of Venice.  Now, I thought that hot chocolate for breakfast would be nice, so I ordered some and found it to be incredibly thick.  A little odd, but perhaps the Italians don't like their hot chocolate with so much milk. (I later asked my walking tour guide and found out that Italian hot chocolate is actually just melted chocolate.  So I literally drank a cup of chocolate for breakfast, aaah!)

After arriving on the actual center island of Venice, I locked up my luggage at the train station and got a map to explore the city.  I went to a square nearby to meet up with a group for a walking tour of Venice.  I did a similar tour in Budapest and really enjoyed it.  Our guide led us to all the important places in the city, explaining their history and little bits of culture about them.  A few things that stood out to me:

-Venice was its own city-state since the 700s/800s, making its development significantly older than some other European cities which did not start showing major signs of development till after the year 1000.
-Venice had groups of wealthy people called scuola, which sponsored health, culture, and art in the city, making Venice the treasure trove it is today.  These were basically the original fraternity!!
-Some of the tunnels in Venice have holes in the underside of them, because they were used by prostitutes in the rooms above to spy on the people knocking at the door.
-Some doors have no easily visible key hole, because they were hidden in the door to more securely protect the inhabitants from robbery and crime.

Gate erected by a scuola
Peephole in a tunnel ceiling
We afterwards went out to a small restaurant with these appetizers which are regularly served in Venice.  I can't really spell the Italian name, though!  I had fun meeting up with some German-speaking friends on the tour and walked around to a couple spots in Venice with an Australian, a Canadian, and an Indonesian student studying in Germany. We went to go see the incredible St. Mark's basilica, which is literally covered with gold mosaics on the inside.  The Indonesian student and I also wandered up to an old Venetian hospital with walkways between the buildings, which were quite low, spread out, and built of plaster.  An interesting design for a hospital, although a little less exhilarating than I expected.
St. Mark's plaza
Rialto bridge
I planned to meet the group for dinner, but ended up not having enough time after going all the way back to the train station on foot and finally making it to my hostel on a different island of Venice. Exhausted and tired, I tucked into bed for the night after researching what I planned to do for the next day.

25 March

Glassblowing on Murano
Trying to make an exact plan for sightseeing everyday honestly stresses me out, since I never know quite how long travel in between different sights will take.  I thus try to be flexible and enjoy things as they come.  I spent the morning getting ready for the day casually and then driving out with the Venetian public boat transport system to the island of Murano, known for its glass blowing shops.  I saw a glass blowing demonstration and then wandered around to some of the shops in the area where I bought a few small gifts for my nieces and nephews.  While I find the glass incredibly gorgeous, I could only buy small pieces due to its incredibly high price.  The weather started picking up after I finished my shopping and I had a slightly
rainy ride on the way back to the main island.


Pasta bolognese
I found my way into a small café and ate some delicious Pasta Bolognese for lunch, but I honestly thought the pasta was as good as gourmet Italian pasta you can buy in America.  I had heard similar reports that food in Venice is good, but not necessarily on a completely different level of goodness.  I nevertheless enjoyed my tortellini with prosciutto and cream sauce and felt prepared to tackle the next sights in Venice in the afternoon.

Favorite statue in the Del Frari church
I headed down to the Santa Maria Patroccina Del Frari church to start by viewing the works of Titiano and other great Italian artists.  And let me tell you, I was not disappointed.  The artwork was truly breathtaking!  I then meandered down to the charity house of the Scuola del Rocco, but found that the entrance price was 9 Euro - a little steep for the money I had already spent in Venice.  I decided to pass on going through that building and instead visited the church next door, which quite conveniently required no entrance fee.  I lastly went down to a beautiful dome called Santa Maria Della Salute.  The dome is often depicted in pictures of Venice and I truly enjoyed viewing the magnificent painted and marbled inside.  Overall, I found that Italian architecture incorporates far more brick and Greek-style shapes in buildings than many Austrian buildings.  Italian architecture is by no means simple, but the inner structure allows the masterpieces of Italian art and architecture to shine truly on their own in the inside of each building.

Dome of Santa Maria Della Salute
Pizza w/ prosciutto & mozarella
I wanted to get an overall view of Venice by climbing the bell tower on the island of St. Giorgio, so I headed out there on a ferry. Unfortunately, the weather had severely worsened by the time I arrived. The wind whipped so sharply over the island that I found it rather hard to walk and worse, the bell tower was closed.  I had a peek inside the church and then took the next ferry available over to my hostel, where I had left my luggage for the day.  I then made my way back through the extraordinarily rainy weather to the main island, where I ate some yummy pizza and then waited in the cold train station to board my night train and finally get dried out.

In order not to end this day on a sad note, I should mention that I ate gelato a couple times in Italy and really enjoyed it. Had some super fluffy cream mousse gelato the second day that was definitely a highlight!

26 March

Thankful again for free spots next to me on the night train, so I could sleep during the night.  I spent the morning in Vienna cleaning up around my apartment and re-packing for the rest of my trip.  We visited a museum in the afternoon which showed the life of Victor Frankl, an influential Viennese psychotherapist.  I had to attend this museum visit in order to make up for half of a class session which I missed after arriving back late from Cologne.  I could hardly wait to get to meet my cousin Anna later that day in Munich.  After the museum visit, I quickly headed over to the train station and boarded my train for Munich, where I met my German cousin, Anna, for the first time!  So cool to finally meet each other after 2 years of talking over Skype and Facebook!

27 March

I was quite overwhelmed by the kindness of Anna, who had planned a great day of showing me around Munich.  Writing this post now, on the 31st of March, I wonder if the whole weekend really happened.  It was so strange and wonderful to feel like family with someone who I had only known over Skype.  So surreal.  I loved our day exploring Munich, getting to see some important monuments, the gardens, the Ludwig-Maximilians-Üniversität, the Münchener Hofbräuhaus (Munich's Royal Brewery) and the incredible Rathaus in Munich.  The Rathaus has these cool little wooden figures on the front which play a song and twirl around every day at noon. We arrived exactly on time to hear the clock and it was an absolutely charming way to ring in the noon hour.  We continued our wandering around in the afternoon to the aforementioned places and ended up back at the Rathaus square later in the afternoon.  We stopped at a café, where I enjoyed some hot chocolate and Käsesahnetorte, kind of like a fluffy cream cheese cake.  I noticed that the portion sizes in Germany are much bigger than in Austria and that food overall cost cheaper.  For instance, soft pretzels in Austria generally cost between 2-4 Euro, depending on where you buy them.  However, even the most decked out pretzels with salami, tomatoes, and cheese cost at most 2 Euro.  Which is really quite wonderful, because pretzels with salami, tomatoes, and cheese are pretty much my favorite food all in one package.

Inside the Frauenkirche
The Rathaus in Munich
The Munich Royal Brewery
Delicious hot chocolate and torte!
Anyways, Anna drove out to Kaufbeuern, the small city next to which her parents live.  Anna's mom was so excited to meet me and I loved getting to talk and eat dinner with them for several hours.  I still can't believe this actually happened.  Anna's mom made a Kazakhstani dinner for us with potatoes, meat, and Dampfnudeln, which are basically giant balla of steamed and fried noodle-like substance.  We talked for a couple hours afterwards, so I could hear the story of how they came to Germany and about their lives there.  André and Nellie, Anna's parents, were born and lived in Kazakhstan for nearly 30 years.  While our common ancestors came from the Ukraine, my great-grandparents emigrated to Canada and theirs stayed.  During World War II, the German-speaking Mennonite population in the Ukraine was forced to emigrate to Kazakhstan in 1941.  Those who stayed in the Ukraine eventually retreated with the German army back to Germany in 1942-1943. Thus, Anna and her family all were born in Kazakhstan.  They left in 1991, after waiting two years to receive permission to enter Germany.  They left everything behind - their jobs, their houses, their money.  They could only take their suitcases and $200/person with them.  And for some reason, all the leaving Mennonites took samovars with them even though they had never used them in the Ukraine!  André and Nellie joked that Kazakhstan was emptied of all its samovars due to the leaving Mennonites.  I also learned about their life here in Germany after moving.  Most of the relatives settled in Ulm, but Nellie and André ended up moving out farther to the Kaufbeuern area.  Johann, Anna's brother, works for a company called Grob as a technical work.  Anna's dad works to design electrical set-ups for new construction and Anna's mom works as a kindergarten teacher.  They built a beautiful house here about 15 years ago, where Johann and Anna then grew up.  So neat to see how they have established their life here after moving from Kazakhstan.  I ended the day by calling my Oma in my room to let her know about everything which happened!

28 March

Anna and I slept in this morning, especially because Anna had an inflammation of her tonsils and needed the extra rest.  We woke up to a typical German breakfast made by Nellie with German rolls, salami, and cheese, along with fruit and caprese salad.  Goodness, Germany is just so great, I get to eat my favorite food for every meal of the day!

After eating breakfast and getting ready for the day, we actually drove over to Neuschwanstein, the Cinderella castle!  There is a castle nearby it called Hohenschwangau, which was older and in use longer than Neuschwanstein.  We hiked up the mountain to Neuschwanstein and walked around the bridges in the area to get a good view of the castle.  We accidentally forgot to get tickets for an inside tour, so I took an inside tour of Hohenschwangau later.  The castle inside was beautiful with painted walls describing life in the Middle Ages or in nature.  Many of the ceilings were covered with a dark color and silver studs to make them look like stars in the heavens.  A true paradise inside this beautiful place.  Nellie asked me outside if a beautiful prince had led me away during my tour inside!  (Nellie and Anna waited outside because they have already seen the inside of both castles before).

At Neuschwanstein!
With Nellie in the courtyard!
Inside Hohenschwangau
On the way back, we took a short drive around Kaufbeuern in order to see the city and then went back home for dinner. The evening went similarly to Friday, except that we actually Skyped my parents and got to talk with them.  Anna's family got to meet my parents and we had fun figuring out the connections between us again.  My Mom also spoke a lot of German during the conversation and we both translated.  Mom translated for Dad and Anna and I translated for her parents.  Mom had a bit of a hard time speaking right away, but she understood almost everything which Nellie said!  I was really so proud of her, because I haven't really been in a situation where my Mom had to speak German before!  I spent a little time catching up with my parents on my own and then we wrapped up the conversation and headed to bed an hour or so later.

29 March

Weißwurstfrühstück
Slept in again delightfully this morning and then enjoyed a traditional German breakfast called Weißwurstfrühstück, literally "white sausage breakfast."  It's basically sausage, sweet mustard, soft pretzels, and beer.  So again, my favorite foods at any time of the day!!  Germany is so great!!

Did I mention that I like sausage?  And cheese?  You should definitely start making them your favorite foods too.  They are really good and you can get very good quality sausage and cheese in Germany.  Yes, very good quality.

We sat around the breakfast table for awhile in the morning and talked about that day, which was Palm Sunday, and the role which God played in our lives.  Nellie and I watched part of a church service and I appreciated hearing her perspective on how she liked reading the Scripture and seeing God in creation.  Their local evangelical church is quite rule-oriented and she has a hard time with the lack of joy among the people there.  The phone rang towards the end of our conversation and Alex, Nellie's nephew, announced that he would be able to come over to visit that morning.  We then wrapped up and I finished getting ready for the day, then went downstairs to meet Alex and his family.
Anna and I said good-bye to everyone in the early afternoon and headed back to Munich, where we visited the Olympic Games center, built for the 1972 Olympics in Munich, and a BMW museum.  We watched a movie and didn't do much in the evening, since we were tired from the long weekend and both had full weeks ahead.

With Anna's family
View of the Olympic sports park from the Olympic Tower
Looking back on the weekend, I feel so overwhelmed by the generosity of these people who are my family, yet who I had never met before.  They welcomed me like one of their own and make me feel just like I do in my family gatherings with my Mom's family in Canada.  Included.  Loved. Eager to see one another.  I felt so bad for some mistakes I made in communicating in German that came off wrongly when I was joking around, and was so thankful for their continued generosity. Truly a wonderful family.  I am blessed and thankful for them more than words can express.